|
||
|
|
Here's my rendition of the nosewheel spat:
I took one of my original mainwheel spats (that I bought before I decided to make the tires larger) and:
Drew the waterline in the spat - this gives me the optimal flight level alignment.
Cut out the bottom tyre hole based on maingear fitment.
Put the mudshield in the rear half (per original instructions).
Cut the nosebowl off the front.
Flanged the nosebowl cutout to allow reattachment of the nosebowl.
Match drilled nosebowl to flange.
Nutplated the flange on each side.
Countersunk nosebowl attach holes.
Attach original front part to original rear part permanently.
Drilled the axel hole (per original instructions).
Cut nosegearleg pivot hole in top of pant and nosebowl (hole is too big).
With the aircraft in flight attitude - determine where attach brackets fit to spat.
Using Van's new stock RV6A nosewheel spat brackets - bent the top set of tabs on each side to a more vertical alignment.
Laid-up six layers of BID tape to each side where the upper brackets would be attached.
Filed out axel hole to reposition axle 1/4" forward and 1/16" higher (to allow for smaller nosegearleg pivot hole)
With the aircraft in flight attitude - drill pant through to attach bracket tops.
Nutplate the upper bracket attach points
Countersink the spat to bracket attach holes.
I still need to:
Modify the lower bracket attach points (cut off old flange and add new flange that sticks out further).
Lay up six layers of BID where the lower brackets will attach.
Drill spat to lower flange.
Nutplate lower flange.
Countersink lower flange attach holes.
Close up the oversize nosegearleg pivot hole.
What I would do differently:
Start by repositioning the axel hole from the start instead of figuring it out later.
Cut the nosebowl further aft so it will go around the brackets easier.
Update.
Removed the original lower bracket attach points up to the relief hole.
I removed the fork and wheel in order to work with it upside down to measure for correct length of the new lower bracket attach points.
With the fork and spat assembled (without wheel/tyre), I was able to measure, cleco-side-grip, and drill the replacement .063 brackets. Then I removed the spat from the fork and riveted the new lower brackets on. After reassembling fork and spat I was able to drill the mounting holes from the inside through thge fiberglass. Countersink the fiberglass and install nutplates and the task is complete.
Here's what it looks like, click to enlarge images:
|
||
|
|
